Snag forest and ponds at Olallie Lake, Oregon
In July of 2014, I was traveling in Oregon’s Cascade Mountain Range with a friend, looking for someplace to camp for a few days where we could enjoy good berry-picking. Looking over our gazetteer, we spotted a place labeled, “Olallie Scenic Area.” What we saw on the map intrigued us; the area was dotted with dozens of lakes, resembling a piece of Minnesota more than anywhere in Oregon that either of us knew. Neither of us had been there, so we decided to go check it out.
The Olallie Scenic Area is located in a bowl-like “saddle” on the ridge of the Cascadess where the Mt. Hood and Willamette National Forests come together. The Pacific Crest Trail passes through it. To the west, the land rolls down in wooded (and clear-cut) foothills to the lush Willamette Valley and on the east tumbles into the arid high desert of the Great Basin. To the south is Mt. Jefferson, known as “Seekseekqua” to some Native Americans. The elevation of the area is about 5000 feet above sea level.
We didn’t know what to expect and were very pleased to find extensive snag forests.
Snag forests are made up of the standing and fallen trees remaining after a wildfire. Several fires have passed through different sections in the last 20 years and they can be visually dated relative to each other by the vegetation that has grown up since. Snag forests are a rare ecosystem, even less common than old growth forests. The reasons for this are simple: decades of fire suppression by humans have decreased the number of wildfires, and hence the amount of snag forests, and timber companies usually log post-fire areas, often heavily.
In the popular mind—due mostly to media stories that are influenced by timber industry propaganda—wildfires are catastrophic events that destroy the forest, leaving a dead wasteland behind. Nothing could be further from the truth. In actuality, wildfires are completely natural, restorative events. The ecosystems they create offer a rich habitat for hundreds of species of plants and animals, many of whom are dependent on fire, and who migrate from place to place following fires. In fact, snag forests end up hosting a greater diversity of species than old growth forests do. Snag forest ecosystems also change quickly, with waves of new species replacing older ones as time goes on, so they are very dynamic places.
For an excellent discussion of the vitality, diversity and characteristics of snag forests, see The Ecological Importance of California’s Rim Fire, by Chad Hanson, PhD. Hanson has written extensively about fire ecology. Professor Hanson explains it all it much better than I could here so I strongly recommend you read this article or others he has written or co-authored.
Olallie Lake has so much intact snag forest because of its designation as a “scenic area”; logging is not allowed there, so it offers an excellent opportunity to experience a virtually untouched snag forest ecosystem. We didn’t know any of this on our first visit, but were attentive enough to know we were seeing something special. We explored with sharp eyes.
Like all ecosystems, the greater Olallie Lake ecosystem is at risk from Climate Change. When my friend and I returned in 2015, the effects of that season’s drought were obvious. Lake levels were lower and many of the smaller pools were dried up entirely. We ended up missing berry season because it started and ended earlier than in 2014, when we had harvested a bumper crop. Other plants were also “ahead of schedule” and done blooming.
In the following 100 photos, you can see some of the plants and animals we met both in the snag forests and in the unburnt forests. Following the slideshow are several videos of animals we met, most of them at our campsites.
Snag Forest, Olallie Butte in the background
The butte is on the Warm Springs Indian Reservation
Snag Forest beside Olallie Lake
Snag Forest beside Olallie Lake
Ponds in the Snag Forest
There were dozens of these ponds when we visited in 2014. There were a few less in 2015 because of the drought.
Snag Forest beside Monon Lake
Trees reflected in lake
Note the mix of snags and live trees.
Snag Forest
Post-fire landscape
Logs left on the ground. The cut tree in this shot was a rare sight in the post-fire zones.
Silvery log
Almost reflective
Conifer seedling
Coming up right next to a burnt log. Probably in its second or third year.
Snag Forest
Snag Forest - Regeneration
The fire here happened 10-14 years previously
Snag Forest - Regeneration
The fire here happened 10-14 years previously
Snag Forest - Regeneration
The fire here happened 10-14 years ago. 5'8" hiker provides scale.
Fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium)
Very common native pioneer species in post-fire environments. Classified in the Evening Primrose Family (Onagraceae).
Fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium) - closeup of flower
Wow, huh? The white "X" is at the end of the "style," the female part of the plant. The male parts, the "anthers," are magenta tipped and arranged around it.
Ligusticum, unknown species - flowers
A native in the Carrot Family (Apiaceae). Plants in this family are well-loved by many kinds of pollinators, from bees to wasps and flies to beetles. Previously, we saw another species of Ligusticum in a post-fire landscape in southern Oregon, in the Siskyous.
Ligusticum, unknown species - foliage
Shape of leaves shows that this plant is not either of the poison Hemlocks, which are in the same family (Apiaceae).
Ligusticum, unknown species
Observed at the edges of the post-fire zone, in the clearing just outside the unburned forest. The water table seemed to be close to the surface here.
Penstemon, unknown species
Observed in the post-fire zone
Ocean Spray (Holodiscus discolor)
Native plant in the Rose Family (Rosaceae). Observed in the middle of the post-fire zone.
Ocean Spray (Holodiscus discolor) - closeup of flowers
Woodland Beardtongue (Nothochelone nemorosa)
A native in the Figwort Family (Scrophulariaceae). Observed in the post-fire zone.
Yarrow (Achillea millifolium)
A native plant and common pioneer species. Called "chipmunk" tail by some Native Americans because that's what its feathery leaves resemble (visible below flower to left).
Lomatium, unknown species
A native in the Carrot Family (Apiaceae). Species in the Lomatium genus are sometimes called "Biscuit Root" because they were a major component of the Native American diet, especially in the Great Basin area. Plants in this family are also readily identified from their seed shape, so even though this specimen had died back completely, we could tell it was a Lomatium.
Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea) - patch
Native pioneer species of disturbed areas like post-fire zones. Gets its common name from the fact that the flowers last a long time without discoloring. Often used in dry flower arrangements for this reason.
Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea) - close-up of flower
The white "petals" are not actually flower parts. The flowers are tiny an bunched inside, appearing golden-yellow in this photograph.
Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea) with Bumble Bee
Note that this plant is growing in the middle of the burnt-out forest.
Asters, unknown species
A veritable riot of purple Asters, observed in the post-fire landscape.
Aster, unknown species
A flower that is also lovely in its seeding stage. Seeds will mature and release over a period of a few days or weeks, with some enjoying better timing than others.
Aster, unknown species
Annual Aster, typical in post-fire landscape.
Sunset at Long Lake
"The Long Lake" was a place in J.R.R. Tolkien's "The Hobbit," which Smaug the Dragon had scorched with his fire-breath. It might have looked something like this!
Gentiana
A native edible and medicinal. Very very bitter to the taste. Beneficial to digestion, as is typical of herbs with that flavor. Classified in the Gentian Family (Gentianaceae).
Some kind of sedge or rush
Observed on the shore of Long Lake
Dark Lake
Looking down from the ridge between Dark Lake and Long Lake. This is over the border into the Warm Spring Reservation.
Dark Lake
Another view from the ridge, trying to show the tremendous height of some of the trees, which are at least 100 feet tall.
Snag Forest and large pond
We found lily pads growing in this lake.
Great Yellow Pond-Lily or "Wokas" (Nuphar polysepala)
Rooted at the bottom of the pond with leaves floating on top and flowers protruding through the surface.
Great Yellow Pond-Lily or "Wokas" (Nuphar polysepala)
Native plant found in ponds and lakes. Named "Wokas" by the Klamath Indians, who collected the seeds for food. They popped them like popcorn or ground them into flour.
Great Yellow Pond-Lily or "Wokas" (Nuphar polysepala)
Close-up of flower
Dried pond
This was full of water at the same time in 2014. The 2015 drought dried it out.
Dried pond with Great Yellow Pond-Lily or "Wokas" (Nuphar polysepala)
In 2014, this pond was full of water at the same time of year. Drained from drought in 2015.
Great Yellow Pond-Lily or "Wokas" (Nuphar polysepala)
As can be seen from the color of the leaves, even though this plant has been out of water for some time (note the cracks in the soil), it is still alive.
Great Yellow Pond-Lily or "Wokas" (Nuphar polysepala) - drying flower
In a dried-up pond, but still alive
Monochamus scutellatus) White-Spotted-Wood-Borer
This insect benefits from post-wildfire landscapes because it lays its eggs in dead or dying wood. This insect is threatened by the timber industry, which destroys its habitat by removing dead trees.
Spirea, next to Olallie Lake
A native in the Rose Family (Rosaceae)
Spirea, close-up of flowers
Long-Horned beetle (Pachyta armata)
Observed here on Spirea flowers.
Thunderhead forming behind Mt. Jefferson
A common sight at this altitude
Thunder clouds and Mt. Jefferson
Moving east
Storm Cloud over Olallie Lake
15 minutes later it was hailing.
A Thunderhead forming
These five shots were taken over the course of just 24 minutes. Weather forms quick up there!
Satyr Comma Butterfly (Polygonia satyrus)
This butterfly hung out with us for about twenty minutes, crawling all over our hands and bare feet and "licking" us with its proboscis.
Satyr Comma Butterfly (Polygonia satyrus)
Check out that proboscis!
Satyr Comma Butterfly (Polygonia satyrus)
Note the comma-shaped mark on its wing.
Parrot's Beak (Pedicularis racemosa)
One of my favorite plants in the whole world. Medicinally useful as a muscle-relaxant and nervine.
Parrot's Beak (Pedicularis racemosa)
Parrot's Beak (Pedicularis racemosa)
Parrot's Beak (Pedicularis racemosa)
Parrot's Beak (Pedicularis racemosa)
One-Sided Wintergreen (Orthilia secunda)
A native in the Heath Family (Ericaceae). Observed in the unburned forest close to the lake.
Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera oblongifolia)
A native in the Orchid Family (Orchidaceae). Observed in the unburned forest next to Olallie Lake.
Dwarf Dogwood or Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis)
Gets a clutch of red berries later in the season.
Valeriana, unknown species
Native plant observed in unburned forest near lakeside
Valeriana, unknown species
Native plant observed in unburned forest near lake
Arnica, unknown species
Well-known medicinal plant, native to the area.
Fireweed Clearwing Moth (Albuna pyramidalis)
Looks like a bee or wasp at first glance, but is actually a moth. Note feathery antennae, a characteristic typical of moths, but unknown in bees or wasps.
Pinesap (Hypopitys monotropa)
A native plant found in conifer understories. It lacks chlorophyll and gets its nutrients by being a parasite on fungi. The term for this is "mycoheterotrophic". See this article for more information
Snapdragons
Probably not native, as they were observed growing in just one patch outside an old cabin.
Beargrass (Xerophyllum tenax)
Also called "Basket Grass" because Native Americans used the blade-like leaves for weaving.
Olallie Lake
Discarded skin of Dragon Fly nymph
Dragon Flies spend their nymph stage (which is like the caterpillar stage of a butterfly) entirely in the water, then crawl up out onto land where they shed their skin and unfurl their wings. Though they might spend years in the nymph stage, they are short-lived as adults, lasting only a few days or a couple weeks - just long enough to mate and lay eggs.
Cascades frog (Rana cascadae)
Observed in Monon Lake. A species whose numbers are in decline. Listed as "Near Threatened" by the IUCN and protected under Oregon law.
Pacific tree frog (Pseudacris regilla)
Observed next to Olallie Lake, heading for the trees.
Mallard mama with ducklings and boat
Swimming in a "V" like they fly in the air.
Mallard mama & older ducklings
We saw two sets of ducklings; these were the older ones, nearly as big as their mother.
Mallard mama
So pretty!
Mallard mama & ducklings, not Photo-shopped
The three ducklings on the left are so similar, they almost look like the same one Photoshopped in twice more, but they are actually real.
Mallard Ducklings
Looks like one of them is telling a joke to the others. "A duck walks into a bar and asks, 'Got any grapes?'..."
Jewel Beetle (Buprestis aurulenta) - top view
Native Americans and Europeans have made jewelry from the shell casings.
Jewel Beetle (Buprestis aurulenta) - sideview
Quite the striking creature!
Chipmunk, shelling sunflower seeds
Stuffing his cheeks.
Chipmunk in chiaroscuro
"Chiaroscuro" is Italian for "light-dark." According to Wikipedia: "in art [it] is the use of strong contrasts between light and dark, usually bold contrasts affecting a whole composition."
Chipmunk, from behind
Such beautiful markings!
Chipmunks eating from hand - Animated GIF!
By the second day in the same campsite, they were brave enough to eat out of our hands.
Female Snakefly in the Agulla genus
Note long ovipositor at the end of her body. This is what she lays eggs with.
Wisakedjak
Wisakedjak: a good looking bird
Wisakedjaks: close-up
Wisakedjak: Trickster
In Native American mythology, Wisakedjak was a trickster.
Wisakedjak: eating out of hand
These birds are not shy
Wisakedjaks: aka "Camp Robbers"
Mt. Jefferson at sunset in snag forest
Sunset at Head Lake
Sunset at Head Lake
Sunset at Head Lake
Sunset at Head Lake
Smoky day
While fires are forces of regeneration for forest ecosystems, they are not pleasant to be around while they are happening! We left Olallie Lake a few days early in 2015 because the smoke from nearby fires got too thick, making breathing unpleasant.
Smoky day
The day before, Mt. Jefferson was visible in this view.
Smoky day
EDIT: And here are a few more photos from another visit, in 2016:
Olallie Butte, observed at Monon Lake
Monon Lake with view of snag forest
Snag forest
Lily pad pond
Lily pads
Contemplation
Lily pad
Sedge
Male flowers
Female flower
Bear Grass (Xerophyllum tenax)
Unknown flower
Jumping Spider
Damselfly, a water-dependent species
Aster
Columbine (Aquilegia formosa)
VIDEOS (2015):
This last video is long—over 6 minutes—but is quite zen once you get into it. As the clip begins, there are two chipmunks fighting over who got to be on the boulder eating the seeds. Most of this action takes place off screen but at one point, while chasing each other around, one of them knocks the camera. After that—at about 1:47—one of them settles in, right in front of the lens, and proceeds to fill his cheeks.
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Thank you to folks on these Facebook groups for helping with ID: IFL Botany, Plant identification and discussion, Plant Identification (intermediate-advanced), Native Plant Society of Oregon, Insect Identification, Butterfly Enthusiast, Reptile and Amphibian (Herp) Identification & Frogs of the World
